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When compiling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred venues. However, nestled prominently among these food titans is a simple salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has left the family totally shocked.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks a family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small restaurant achieving such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary triumph.