Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and tourists alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city is little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a continued dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – little-known delights that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however note that their children do not want to master the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these tales and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
